week #002
the patch confuses me...
we’re gonna try a weekly post on sundays. this past week we only surfed once so here it goes…
randa monday 9/4
there was supposed to be a big swell “4-6 feet” in bolinas. i found positioning to be really tricky. usually i try to line up with this pipe and some blue graffiti. that spot wasn’t really working though. big looking set waves would roll in but they were somehow hard to catch. the waves i caught were not anywhere near 4-6, maybe 3 feet tops.
i followed faiq further north, where there was a clear right hand peeler. i got it a couple times but i either didn’t make the section or the wave was just kind of short, i don’t remember. one of my waves was good, i stayed high and when it closed out i actually did a good job pivoting the board straight and gracefully dismounting.
on our way out we ran into a new friend, laura, who gave faiq a tip to get just outside of the kelp patch pretty far inside, then do a faded takeoff. i think sometimes when i surf i let what i think i’m supposed to do get in the way of actual real-time observation. like it seemed silly to sit so far inside, but that’s where the waves were breaking.
faiq monday 9/4
Bolinas was super fun. We were out in the water for a couple of hours. We got in when the tide was rising and left when it dropped by a significant amount. The spots were tricky like randa said. I started the session lining up with the pipe and going to the left which felt like a really nice wave. But it probably looked a lot worse than it felt. Oh well.
I noticed a couple of other people on the north end catching a clean right hand peeler so I tried that wave and had a ton of fun there as well. The wave connected to another point and it was fun going from one part of it to the next.
I noticed that the inside sections looked really fun and unridden, but I felt catching the inside wave could be complicated with how crowded it was.
Things that went well: caught a lot of waves
Things to improve/work on: keeping my feet on the inside of the stringer when riding the wave face to get up higher on the wave.